The Secret to Epoxy Resin Success

The Secret to Success: 

How to Make Epoxy Resin Art Series: Part 2

Preparing for a Resin Pour

The secret to creating great resin art is PREPARATION! Working with epoxy resin is not as easy as it looks. It is not hard, or difficult to learn, unless you are unprepared! Professional resin artists know that this

Epoxy resin: Part A and Part B

Once combined, the clock starts ticking. Literally! You have a short amount of time (pot time) to mix, apply the liquid resin, and de-gas, before it becomes to thick to work with. There are other rules too, so setting yourself up for success is essential to making beautiful resin art and executing an effective epoxy resin pour.

Here are some checklists to guide you through setting up a successful work area.

CHOOSING A WORK SPACE:

• Large indoor work area (studio, basement or spare room)
• Optimal temperature and humidity (temperature controlled)
• Clean and free from dust and debris
• Sufficent lighting (natural and artificial)
• Electrical outlets and drop cords (for heat gun)
• Flat surface for your artwork (table, sawhorses)
• Additional area for mixing (side table)
• Trashcan(s)

Optional:

• running water
• space heater
• air cleaner 
• exhaust fan
• dehumidifier
• tape measure
• stool
• journal and pen
• storage space
• shelving

SUPPLIES & MATERIALS:

• Plastic dropcloths or plastic sheeting to cover all surfaces
• Apron, smock or painting clothes
• Hat or hair band 
• Paper towels (lots)
• Disposable gloves (vinyl or nitrile)
• Painter's tape (Frog or Blue) wide enough to protect the edge
• Level 
• Plastic cups (several sizes and lots) 
• Plastic measuring and mixing container (16 oz, 32 oz or larger)
• Craft sticks or Paint mixers for large pours
• Rubber spatulas, plastic spreaders or disposable brushes 
• Exact-O knife, tweezers or toothpicks (to remove debris)
• Implements or utensils for texture or effects (comb, notched trowel
• Spray bottles
• Colors (paints, inks, pigments, powders, dyes, tints)
• Additives and applicators (oils and eye droppers)
• 91% isopropel alcohol, (denatured alcohol or acetone*)
• Epoxy resin (EcoPoxy or brand made for artist)
• Your project or artwork 

**If you can't close off the work area during the curing process then use a large cardboard box to cover your artwork. (longer, wider and taller than your project)

Pick A Substrate (surface)

Wood, canvas, tile, paper, metal, acrylic, and so many more possibilities. Epoxy resin can be applied to dozens of surfaces or materials. Get creative with your selection! If you're a resin artist (or epoxy resin painter), like I am, consider using wood panels instead of stretched canvas. If you are coating a stretched canvas with epoxy resin, use rigid cardboard as support to

prevent the canvas from sagging and making the resin pool in the center. *I have also used smaller stretched canvases that fit perfectly under my large canvas project. 
*example: (2) 16 x 20" canvases fit under a 24 x 48

PREPPING:

After you have chosen your substrate, there's a little more preparation before you pour your epoxy resin.
TAPE: Tape the back of your artwork with painter's tape to protect it from drips.
CLEAN: Make sure it is completely clean and dry. I suggest you spray the surface with alcohol and wipe clean to make sure it is completely dust-free each and every time you are about to pour.
SEAL: Seal your project, and/or any objects to be coated, with a light coat of resin or a spray-on or brush-on sealant. Epoxy resin is the best choice, using a paint brush (correct size, disposable) foam roller, or spreader, apply a thin quick coat to seal in any air, debris or dust that will definitely contaminate the second coat (flood coat) of resin. This step is so important if you are going to have a perfect finish!
PRIME: If you are going to make a resin art painting, it's a good idea to prime your surface with a thick coat of white paint. Although it is optional, a white surface will show truer, brighter colors. If you are going to leave any negative space, this will provide a smooth background.
**note:I always prime my wood panels with a coat of white house paint, the all-in-one kind, before I seal it with epoxy resin. This gives me a perfect surface to create my artwork and makes the finished painting flawless.

Epoxy Resin Pro Hacks

Epoxy Resin Hacks:from HalfBakedArt 

HalfBakedArt Resin Class

How to Make Epoxy Resin Art Series: Part 1 

Its hard to decide where to start...

So before I walk you through the steps to creating quality, professional resin art, let's talk about the proper way to apply epoxy resin:  

The answer is: in 2 coats.

 It is essential to seal the surface, object(s) or substrate or whatever you are putting epoxy resin on, All resins are designed to be applied in 2 coats. A seal coat and a flood coat. This is recommended for all materials.

Although there are several ways to seal, the best is with a quick layer of epoxy resin.  I usually use a brush or foam roller to paint the entire area. I don't worry about perfection, just a light, thin coat. I also don't worry about de-gassing the seal coat, any bubbles will be covered by the flood coat. Sealing the surface first eliminates any air from being released from the surface and creates a practically bubble-free zone for the second coat (flood coat). 

The 1st coat should be dry to the touch before adding the 2nd coat. **This one (flood coat)will be your perfect resin art. If you are coloring your resin, add it to your flood coat. (you can always apply more seal coats if desired)

Add color to the flood coat of epoxy resin

After applying your flood coat, you may need to de-gass the still wet epoxy resin with a heat gun on low heat setting. A heat gun works better than a torch because it covers a larger area with heat evenly.

• Hold above the surface 3-6 inches and keep it moving. 
• Move across the resin in a wide sweeping motion. 
• Use the glare from the light to see the bubbles popping and any imperfections in your project.



Use heat gun to remove bubbles

• Wait 10-15 minutes and repeat if needed 

A torch can be used as well, BUT be careful not to overheat the resin. The is a common problem with a torch and with limited time to de-gass before the resin become too gelled, the heat gun is much more effective

 Visit my website for more information and to learn about EcoPoxy epoxy resin, the safest, greenest epoxy products available. As a professional resin artist, I use them exclusively!
 In upcoming posts, I will tell you why and about many tips and tricks for using epoxy resin in several artistic applications.


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Up next: How to eliminate air bubbles!

Hang art like a pro....simple hack

How many holes are behind the pictures on your walls? If the answer is more than 1, read this:

Before you hang your wall art:

If you are not sure about how a big painting or wall art will look it a certain spot, 

measure the  dimensions of the artwork and cut a piece of craft paper or 

newspaper the same size. Use painters tape or masking tape to place it on the 

wall in question. Back up, take a look, make adjustments and then live with it for a

bit. If it works, great. If not, move the paper to the next spot.

I recommend this process for gallery walls and groupings as well. Cut out each

size to be hung and arrange them on the floor first, to easy shuffle them into the 

best layout, then transfer the arrangement to the wall to view before putting any 

nails in the wall

Simple Steps to Hang a Single Painting

1. Measure the height of the wall art, divide by 2. (1st number)
2. Measure 57 inches up from the floor (2nd number)
3. Measure distance between the wire & the top edge of art (3rd number)(hanging wire on the back of painting & top of frame)
4. Add numbers 1 & 2
5. Subtract number 3
6. Put the nail here. 
7. Hang art. The center of the artwork is 57" above the floor 

Tips to consider:

Consider the space to be filled (from above the fireplace to the ceiling) then place it 6 – 8″ above the piece of furniture (if its big enough) and see how it looks. The artwork and the piece of furniture should relate to each other and live near enough to each other that they collectively engage the whole wall together as a unit. Often, if there is a huge gap in between it will look disjointed

Additional Tips:

• art hung in a grid works well centered at eye level

• works for picture ledges too

• eye-level above a sofa or seating area

• 6 "- 8" above shelves and furniture

• multiples look best in odd-numbered groupings. (3 is most popular) 

Remember ..."Three is the key to symmetry" (yes, I just made that up)



I use all-in-one screws/anchors. You can find them at art/hobby stores, DIY stores, retail chains. They support up to 100 lbs without a stud in drywall, concrete or wood. I use a cordless screwdriver and it takes just seconds. 

 Remember to always use your own judgment to apply these rules in your own home. 

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