Pour Like a Pro Resin Artist Expert Hacks

Using epoxy resin doesn't have to be intimidating. 

And it doesn't have to end in disaster

A little research and common sense will prepare you for your first pour. So do a small test pour before attempting any large or expensive project. ALWAYS read the instructions provided and follow them exactly!

I can't count the number of conversations I've had with people after they've used epoxy resin with less than perfect results. Most of the time it was because they didn't read the directions, or thought they knew what they were doing after watching a YouTube video. Instructional videos and "how-to's" fall under one of these categories:

• 10% are made by experts, professional artists and craftsmen, with skills, refined & perfected through years of experience, not to mention talent
• 90 % are not made by experts and are filled with incorrect info and instruction. 

Please don't expect to get the same results as a pro the first time you try it, but with patience and practice, you'll get it.  Here's some, not so common, hints for epoxy resin users of all experience levels.

Pro Resin Tips:

• Temperature and humidity are key factors in every pour

• Always work in a climate controlled space.

• Cold resin should be warmed before mixing. 125°F max. (Especially if the storage room temp is below 72°F)

• Warming your epoxy resin before measuring/mixing will make it slightly thinner so it combines effortlessly and generates fewer air bubbles. 

• Clean the entire surface with 91% rubbing alcohol before pouring. Repeat between coats.

• When mixing your Part A and B, stir smoothly, not vigorously, so you don't create too many bubbles.

• After mixing thoroughly, let the container sit for a minute and most of the bubbles will rise to the top (like foam) Use quick, sweeping motions with a heat gun to a remove the layer of bubbles. (do not melt your container)

• Constantly scrape the sides and bottom of the mixing container to avoid a ruined project with sticky spots or uncured areas.

• To increase your open time (work time) add a few drops of 91% isopropyl alcohol to your mixing cup

• To expedite the curing time, close all doors and vents in the work space then add a space heater and crank it up. This will speed up the dry time tremendously.

• The more resin you mix, or the deeper the container, the faster it will gel (start to cure). When mixing a large amount, pour onto your surface or divide the mixture into smaller portions ASAP. Do NOT let the full mix cup sit! If your not prepared for your pour, read my previous post

• Never pour resin more than 1/4" deep or in too large of an area.  This will cause excessive heat build up during the exothermic process and the resin will smoke and bubble over like a volcano. For deep voids or layers, use a resin designed for a deep pour (EcoPoxy Liquid Plastic*) OR build up 1/4" layers, one at a time, until you've filled the area. *see below

• The more resin there is, the more heat that s generated. (total volume i.e. deep container or extra large surface area or depth) Excessive heat decreases the open time, accelerates the gel time and usually ruins the curing process

• When de-gassing, use a heat gun to cover a larger area at once. Stay 4-6 inches above the surface and always keep it moving. Wait 10-15 minutes and repeat.

• Use the glare from lighting to see the imperfections in the wet resin layer and correct them. Air bubbles too.

• If your stored epoxy resin has been exposed to freezing temperatures, it may crystallize. Warming it slowly, by heating the resin in warm water, will restore it to a usable condition.

• All items to be coated, (covered, encapsulated or embedded) in resin must be sealed. Use a thin layer of resin, brush-on or spray-on sealant. 

• All items and surfaces MUST be completely dry before applying epoxy resin. Even a hint of moisture will ruin the pour

• When coloring resin, a little goes a long way. The general rule is 10:1 ratio. Most types of pigment will use much less. NEVER exceed 10% color or 20% of ANY additive. 

**If you have ever added color and when you stirred the cup it got thick and gooey like taffy, that's because the water content was too high. You used too much or that paint was old.(polymers separate when they are old)

*EcoPoxy's Liquid Plastic 2:1 ratio is an epoxy resin formula that can poured up to 1.5 inches deep, due to a slowed exothermic process. It can be used for many resin applications but is suggested for river tables, deep molding and encapsulation, it will have a pot time of up to 8 hrs and 72+ hrs to cure.

If you haven't already...try EcoPoxy®  bio-based epoxy resin. I use it exclusively and sell the full line of epoxy resin products on my website. 

Shop EcoPoxy

Metallic Color Kit 

EcoPoxy Color Pigment Kit

UVPoxy Kit

Liquid Plastic 2:1 Ratio

All artwork by Jane Biven 

HalfBakedArt

 ©2018 Jane Biven all rights reserved.

The Secret to Epoxy Resin Success

The Secret to Success: 

How to Make Epoxy Resin Art Series: Part 2

Preparing for a Resin Pour

The secret to creating great resin art is PREPARATION! Working with epoxy resin is not as easy as it looks. It is not hard, or difficult to learn, unless you are unprepared! Professional resin artists know that this

Epoxy resin: Part A and Part B

Once combined, the clock starts ticking. Literally! You have a short amount of time (pot time) to mix, apply the liquid resin, and de-gas, before it becomes to thick to work with. There are other rules too, so setting yourself up for success is essential to making beautiful resin art and executing an effective epoxy resin pour.

Here are some checklists to guide you through setting up a successful work area.

CHOOSING A WORK SPACE:

• Large indoor work area (studio, basement or spare room)
• Optimal temperature and humidity (temperature controlled)
• Clean and free from dust and debris
• Sufficent lighting (natural and artificial)
• Electrical outlets and drop cords (for heat gun)
• Flat surface for your artwork (table, sawhorses)
• Additional area for mixing (side table)
• Trashcan(s)

Optional:

• running water
• space heater
• air cleaner 
• exhaust fan
• dehumidifier
• tape measure
• stool
• journal and pen
• storage space
• shelving

SUPPLIES & MATERIALS:

• Plastic dropcloths or plastic sheeting to cover all surfaces
• Apron, smock or painting clothes
• Hat or hair band 
• Paper towels (lots)
• Disposable gloves (vinyl or nitrile)
• Painter's tape (Frog or Blue) wide enough to protect the edge
• Level 
• Plastic cups (several sizes and lots) 
• Plastic measuring and mixing container (16 oz, 32 oz or larger)
• Craft sticks or Paint mixers for large pours
• Rubber spatulas, plastic spreaders or disposable brushes 
• Exact-O knife, tweezers or toothpicks (to remove debris)
• Implements or utensils for texture or effects (comb, notched trowel
• Spray bottles
• Colors (paints, inks, pigments, powders, dyes, tints)
• Additives and applicators (oils and eye droppers)
• 91% isopropel alcohol, (denatured alcohol or acetone*)
• Epoxy resin (EcoPoxy or brand made for artist)
• Your project or artwork 

**If you can't close off the work area during the curing process then use a large cardboard box to cover your artwork. (longer, wider and taller than your project)

Pick A Substrate (surface)

Wood, canvas, tile, paper, metal, acrylic, and so many more possibilities. Epoxy resin can be applied to dozens of surfaces or materials. Get creative with your selection! If you're a resin artist (or epoxy resin painter), like I am, consider using wood panels instead of stretched canvas. If you are coating a stretched canvas with epoxy resin, use rigid cardboard as support to

prevent the canvas from sagging and making the resin pool in the center. *I have also used smaller stretched canvases that fit perfectly under my large canvas project. 
*example: (2) 16 x 20" canvases fit under a 24 x 48

PREPPING:

After you have chosen your substrate, there's a little more preparation before you pour your epoxy resin.
TAPE: Tape the back of your artwork with painter's tape to protect it from drips.
CLEAN: Make sure it is completely clean and dry. I suggest you spray the surface with alcohol and wipe clean to make sure it is completely dust-free each and every time you are about to pour.
SEAL: Seal your project, and/or any objects to be coated, with a light coat of resin or a spray-on or brush-on sealant. Epoxy resin is the best choice, using a paint brush (correct size, disposable) foam roller, or spreader, apply a thin quick coat to seal in any air, debris or dust that will definitely contaminate the second coat (flood coat) of resin. This step is so important if you are going to have a perfect finish!
PRIME: If you are going to make a resin art painting, it's a good idea to prime your surface with a thick coat of white paint. Although it is optional, a white surface will show truer, brighter colors. If you are going to leave any negative space, this will provide a smooth background.
**note:I always prime my wood panels with a coat of white house paint, the all-in-one kind, before I seal it with epoxy resin. This gives me a perfect surface to create my artwork and makes the finished painting flawless.

Epoxy Resin Pro Hacks

Epoxy Resin Hacks:from HalfBakedArt 

HalfBakedArt Resin Class

How to Make Epoxy Resin Art Series: Part 1 

Its hard to decide where to start...

So before I walk you through the steps to creating quality, professional resin art, let's talk about the proper way to apply epoxy resin:  

The answer is: in 2 coats.

 It is essential to seal the surface, object(s) or substrate or whatever you are putting epoxy resin on, All resins are designed to be applied in 2 coats. A seal coat and a flood coat. This is recommended for all materials.

Although there are several ways to seal, the best is with a quick layer of epoxy resin.  I usually use a brush or foam roller to paint the entire area. I don't worry about perfection, just a light, thin coat. I also don't worry about de-gassing the seal coat, any bubbles will be covered by the flood coat. Sealing the surface first eliminates any air from being released from the surface and creates a practically bubble-free zone for the second coat (flood coat). 

The 1st coat should be dry to the touch before adding the 2nd coat. **This one (flood coat)will be your perfect resin art. If you are coloring your resin, add it to your flood coat. (you can always apply more seal coats if desired)

Add color to the flood coat of epoxy resin

After applying your flood coat, you may need to de-gass the still wet epoxy resin with a heat gun on low heat setting. A heat gun works better than a torch because it covers a larger area with heat evenly.

• Hold above the surface 3-6 inches and keep it moving. 
• Move across the resin in a wide sweeping motion. 
• Use the glare from the light to see the bubbles popping and any imperfections in your project.



Use heat gun to remove bubbles

• Wait 10-15 minutes and repeat if needed 

A torch can be used as well, BUT be careful not to overheat the resin. The is a common problem with a torch and with limited time to de-gass before the resin become too gelled, the heat gun is much more effective

 Visit my website for more information and to learn about EcoPoxy epoxy resin, the safest, greenest epoxy products available. As a professional resin artist, I use them exclusively!
 In upcoming posts, I will tell you why and about many tips and tricks for using epoxy resin in several artistic applications.


Subscribe to this blog for more on epoxy resin.
Up next: How to eliminate air bubbles!

Hang art like a pro....simple hack

How many holes are behind the pictures on your walls? If the answer is more than 1, read this:

Before you hang your wall art:

If you are not sure about how a big painting or wall art will look it a certain spot, 

measure the  dimensions of the artwork and cut a piece of craft paper or 

newspaper the same size. Use painters tape or masking tape to place it on the 

wall in question. Back up, take a look, make adjustments and then live with it for a

bit. If it works, great. If not, move the paper to the next spot.

I recommend this process for gallery walls and groupings as well. Cut out each

size to be hung and arrange them on the floor first, to easy shuffle them into the 

best layout, then transfer the arrangement to the wall to view before putting any 

nails in the wall

Simple Steps to Hang a Single Painting

1. Measure the height of the wall art, divide by 2. (1st number)
2. Measure 57 inches up from the floor (2nd number)
3. Measure distance between the wire & the top edge of art (3rd number)(hanging wire on the back of painting & top of frame)
4. Add numbers 1 & 2
5. Subtract number 3
6. Put the nail here. 
7. Hang art. The center of the artwork is 57" above the floor 

Tips to consider:

Consider the space to be filled (from above the fireplace to the ceiling) then place it 6 – 8″ above the piece of furniture (if its big enough) and see how it looks. The artwork and the piece of furniture should relate to each other and live near enough to each other that they collectively engage the whole wall together as a unit. Often, if there is a huge gap in between it will look disjointed

Additional Tips:

• art hung in a grid works well centered at eye level

• works for picture ledges too

• eye-level above a sofa or seating area

• 6 "- 8" above shelves and furniture

• multiples look best in odd-numbered groupings. (3 is most popular) 

Remember ..."Three is the key to symmetry" (yes, I just made that up)



I use all-in-one screws/anchors. You can find them at art/hobby stores, DIY stores, retail chains. They support up to 100 lbs without a stud in drywall, concrete or wood. I use a cordless screwdriver and it takes just seconds. 

 Remember to always use your own judgment to apply these rules in your own home.